AFR Kit Install Instructions
Important Notes of Using the AFR Kit:
Condensation from a cold engine starting can cause damage to the O2 sensor that is hot. To avoid damage, do not start the sled cold if the gauge has been on without the sled running in the last few minutes.
An unpowered wideband O2 sensor will quickly carbon foul if the engine is running. Do not run the sled with the AFR controller disconnected from power, or the wideband O2 sensor disconnected from the AFR controller.
Do not disconnect the AFR controller from the wideband O2 sensor with gauge powered on.
Leaded fuel will significantly reduce the life of the wideband O2 sensor.
If you need to install a second exhaust bung for the Wideband O2 sensor please refer to this documentation.
Install the white heater ground wire's ring terminal on the bolt below the existing ground. This bolt is between the exhaust and chaincase as indicated in the following picture:
Run the white heater ground wire along the aluminum frame member to the hood's wiring harness, using the supplied zip ties to secure the wire to the frame member and the wiring harness that connects to the hood.
Install the supplied Wideband O2 sensor into the exhaust. Run the wire to the wire harness that connects to the hood, like the white heater ground wire.
Unwrap the electrical tape and wire loom from the wire harness leading to the hood, exposing the red wire with blue stripe.
Using the supplied blue tap splice, splice the supplied red wire to the red wire with blue stripe:
Using the supplied blue tap splice, splice the supplied black wire to the black wire in the in the same harness as the one were the fused red wire was spliced in.
-UNPLUG THE HOOD'S WIRING HARNESS (Some of the following steps may cause electrical shorts if the hood is still plugged in).
-Unplug the gauge from the its wiring harness.
-Remove the electrical tape and wire loom from the wire bundle leading to the gauge's connector.
-Grasp the wire connector that plugs into the gauge and use a small flat head screw driver to unlock the white retainer (the white retainer will pop out about a centimeter when unlocked)
-Unlock the wire guide using a small flat head screwdriver and pull the wire guide backwards.
-Note that in the following pictures the wire colors do not match what is on the sled.
-Also note that the wires are quite stiff, and it will take some gentle wiggling to get the wire guide to slide back an inch or two.
-Using the picture below as a reference to locate the correct pin location, insert a paperclip into the small hole above the pin's slot and remove the white "Pin Blank" by pulling it out the back of the connector. If you have trouble getting the pin to release, see the alternative pin removal guide at the bottom of this page.
-Once the white "Pin Blank" has been removed, insert the supplied pin into the connector from the back until it snaps into place. Note that the pin has an up and a down. Match the orientation of the existing pins by looking into the back of the connector and matching their orientation.
-Re-attach the gauge's connector to the gauge
Using supplied zip ties, attach the AFR controller to the wire harness that leads to the hood so that when the hood is installed the AFR controller is in the area behind the headlights.
After re-installing the hood of the snowmobile and connecting the hood's wiring harness, connect the following:
Green wire from AFR controller to green wire that leads to gauge's connector
White wire from the AFR controller to the white heater ground wire that leads to the frame
Red wire from the AFR controller to the red fused wire
Black wire from the AFR controller to the black wire
Connect the Wideband O2 sensor to the AFR controller
Alternative Pin Removal
-Using a small screw driver, gently pry the white retainer of connector completely out. This is where electrical shorts will happen if you do not unplug the hood harness.
-To remove the pin push the head of a small standard screwdriver in between the center plastic piece and the pin being removed. Then pull the pin out the back of the connector. (Note that in the picture below the pin being removed is not the one where the boost kit pin goes).
-Insert the white retainer back into the connector. The "fins" of the retainer must go between the pins.