Boost Hookup Wire Installation Instructions
Note: The Boost Hookup Wire comes with an extra wire for connecting an AFR controller as well. This extra wire does not need to be installed if an AFR controller will not be connected.
-Locate the ECU of the snowmobile. On Procross/Proclimb sleds the ECU is located on top of the clutch guard.
-Disconnect the smaller connector, which is a 26 pin connector, and on Procross/Proclimb sleds is the connector on the ECU that is furthest from the engine.
-Remove electrical tape and pull back wire loom to expose the wires going to the connector:
This image shows removal of the electrical tape underneath the wire loom. The wire loom and electrical tape that is wrapped around the wire loom have already been removed.
-Locate the Green wire with Grey stripe (NOT the Green wire with White Stripe):
This imagine shows the location of the Green wire with Grey stripe.
The following picture shows the Green wire with White stripe that you should NOT use:
-Splice into the Green wire with Grey stripe using the supplied blue wire splice.
-Ensure that the supplied green wire is inserted past the metal piece in the center of the splice
-Use a pair of pliers or channel locks to push the metal piece of the splice all the way down
-Snap the blue cover into place so that it covers the metal piece of the splice
-Completely wrap the splice with electrical tape. Then re-wrap the bundle of wires with electrical tape.
-Place the wire loom around the bundle of wires and re-wrap the wire loom with electrical tape (electrical tape around the wire loom not shown in the picture below). The bulge created by the wire splice will cause the wire loom's split to be on a different side of the wire bundle. You may need to trim the end of the wire loom so that the bend of the wire bundle doesn't interfere with the wire loom.
-Plug the 26 pin connector back into the ECU
-Route the green wire (with wire loom wrapped around it) alongside the existing wiring harness to the hood's electrical connector. Use supplied zip ties to secure it to the existing wiring harness. The routing can be performed with the hood on if you use a stick to push the wire towards the steering console, but is most easily done with the hood off.
-UNPLUG THE HOOD'S WIRING HARNESS (Some of the following steps may cause electrical shorts if the hood is still plugged in).
-Unplug the gauge from the its wiring harness.
-Remove the electrical tape and wire loom from the wire bundle leading to the gauge's connector.
-Grasp the wire connector that plugs into the gauge and use a small flat head screw driver to unlock the white retainer (the white retainer will pop out about a centimeter when unlocked)
-Unlock the wire guide using a small flat head screwdriver and pull the wire guide backwards.
-Note that in the following pictures the wire colors do not match what is on the sled.
-Also note that the wires are quite stiff, and it will take some gentle wiggling to get the wire guide to slide back an inch or two.
-Using the picture below as a reference to locate the correct pin location, insert a paperclip into the small hole above the pin's slot and remove the white "Pin Blank" by pulling it out the back of the connector. If you have trouble getting the pin to release, see the alternative pin removal guide at the bottom of this page.
-Once the white "Pin Blank" has been removed, insert the supplied pin into the connector from the back until it snaps into place. Note that the pin has an up and a down. Match the orientation of the existing pins by looking into the back of the connector and matching their orientation.
-Connect the wire from the ECU to the wire attached to the newly installed pin.
-Re-attach the gauge's connector to the gauge
-Re-attach the hood connector
Alternative Pin Removal
-Using a small screw driver, gently pry the white retainer of connector completely out. This is where electrical shorts will happen if you do not unplug the hood harness.
-To remove the pin push the head of a small standard screwdriver in between the center plastic piece and the pin being removed. Then pull the pin out the back of the connector. (Note that in the picture below the pin being removed is not the one where the boost kit pin goes).
-Insert the white retainer back into the connector. The "fins" of the retainer must go between the pins.